Day 11, 4 June 2007, Bowes to Langdon Beck

A misty morning out of Bowes, visibility at 150 yards, and past the old chemical weapons storage site. Eerie atmosphere in the mist. An awkward climb across marshes around The Old Moss although as we crested the summit the mist lifted and views of Blackton Reservoir appeared. Goldsborough Carr, a high set of crags, had a boggy bottom so the gaiters stayed on for another day...making walking heavier and more tiring. Blisters were beginning to annoy – we hadn’t had many till now and they are easily treatable but when you are tired they are energy sapping.

En route at the Ancient Unicorn we had met David F, from Cheltenham. David is 79 and was on day 3 of his walk. He constantly outstripped us and another group of walkers. He also commented that he had been charged £10 for a three mile taxi ride from the Unicorn to God’s Bridge, which we all felt was exploitation by a local company who had tagged David’s ride onto the end of the weekday school run.

Anyway, a pleasant stroll across Hunderthwaite Moor, Hannah's Meadow and round Harter Fell till Middleton in Teesdale was in sight. Tea on the hills above the town was followed by a visit to the small town centre, with a nice, old-fashioned by prosperous feel about the place. Having re-stocked on Dr Scholl products at the local chemist, we indulged in ice-cream and meandered westwards along the Tees. There should be two impressive waterfalls here – Low and High Force – but recent weather had reduced both to a growl rather than a roar. Still impressive though and worth a visit if in the area.

A few miles further and into the YHA at Langdon Beck…small and modern and reportedly the highest YHA in England. Unfortunately there had recently been a fire in the main kitchen, so no meals were available. A 10 minute walk along a deserted country road took us to the Langdon Beck Hotel. Ever see the film “An American Werewolf in London” ? The food however was excellent and the situation belies the warm atmosphere…including the wood fire which was a welcome sight (yes, I know it’s supposed to be summer, but not in N. Yorkshire!). Worth noting that the hotel does not take credit or debit cards and only accepts cheques with a card number on the back. Cash seems OK, in fact pieces of eight are probably preferred tender.

Back to the YHA about 9.30 pm and still light outside. This had also been our first opportunity to catch up on washing clothes etc, although the warden had asked us not to use the tumble dryer unless we really had to…this in keeping with YHA policy on energy reduction. Unsurprisingly, al that happened was that using the tumble dryer was delayed till after the (cold) breakfast next morning, delaying our departure.

As this had been our longest day to date, we did feel YHA had not lived up to their usual very high standards.

Day 10, 3 June 2007, Keld to Bowes

A dry day again, steady from Keld, past the Cartrake Force waterfall and an easy walk along the edge of Black Moor. Eventually reaching the famous Tan Hill Inn, where a drink stop is compulsory for all Way Walkers. Given its location it is easy to see why it is such a welcome sight on a bad day. Today however was wonderful; we simply stopped for tea and to phone Kenneth, asking him to log onto the webcam inside Tan Hill Inn so that we could wave to the family and reassure them we were in one piece, sane and sound.

After Tan Hill Inn, a boggy walk across Washfold Rigg along Frummington Beck. Mist was just descending and the marker poles proved useful…especially given the absence if any intermediate Way markers. This was also a chance for Margarette to practice bearings on the compass and learn how to do back bearings, given the descending mist. Shortly afterwards, all was clear and we had a pleasant lunch dangling our feet over one of the bridges…without, of course, removing the gaiters as that would have involved just too much work.

Eventually, a steady plod into the Bowes Loop and up to Bowes Castle and the Ancient Unicorn coaching Inn which we reached just before the heavens opened. Good accommodation and reasonable food. This was the town Charles Dickens used in parts of Nicholas Nickleby…Dotheboys House is modelled on the school at the top of the village and Dickens stayed in the Unicorn in 1838.

Whilst it is an interesting historical village, it is, sadly, dying as a result of the A66 by-pass constructed 14 years ago. More houses up for sale than normal for such a small village, a combined Post Office and village shop which obviously doesn’t see much business and a generally depressed air about the houses. Perhaps lessons could be learned from Malham which is about the same size but a total contrast in approach to survival.

Day 9, 2 June 2007, Hawes to Keld

A walk through town then across fields to Hardraw Force waterfall, a bit weak at this time. Then a long shallow climb up what appears in places to be an old turnpike toad to Black Hill Moss then Great Shunner Fell. A beautiful day with light winds and occasional cloud cover but never a threat of rain. We’d left the heavier Berghaus and Sprayaway jackets in the main luggage for the first time, relying on the capes should we get caught out.

Again, stunning views of the Yorkshire wilderness as we ascended Black Hill Moss with the wind behind us. Both of us in good form, feeling fit and cheerful. Tea stop at the 2 hour point just short of the summit rather than in the four sided windbreak.

Lots of other walkers out today and of course Adele and Richard (Mr Ferrari) who at this point were an hour or so behind us. By late lunchtime we had reached Thwaite and the Kearton Brothers teashop and hotel. Reportedly, by those we spoke to, a good B&B. There we were caught up by A&R and met their “Support Team” – an uncle who had driven to meet them with some equipment requirements and a couple with whom A&R are walking the West Highland Way in late summer. A cheery, light lunch then on towards Keld.

Then a minor disaster. I mistook the junction at 903986 for that at 904986 and we took the lower path, directly adjacent to the barn. This lower path peters out after about a kilometre and we were faced with either returning to the junction or climbing up the steep valley side then over the dividing wall. We chose the latter and had a steep, not too safe, climb on all fours, with directions being shouted down to us by A&R who by now had not only caught up but also taken the right path. This decision of theirs was based on their Garmin readout…Richard has the latest wrist worn version (do I sound a little jealous?). Bottom line was that they got it right and we were wrong.

Once on the right track, we continued along Kisdon Side, about 200 metres above the valley floor and again with spectacular views. For those not wanting to take the high road, there is a good path on the valley floor.

Nearing Keld we heard the rush of Kisdon Force, one of the many waterfalls in the area.

B&B tonight at Butt House with the illustrious Doreen and Ernest Whitehead. They are a legend of the Way, with a direct manner (boots go on the shelves, sticks not allowed in rooms, you will clear your plate!) but really helpful. No sooner had we arrived than tea, warm scones and chocolate cake were available in the walkers’ sitting room. And they do this for all arrivals. The house is also licensed, with sensible prices for the necessarily limited stock of beer, wine etc. Regrettably, they retire next year and the Way will be the poorer for their departure.

Day 8. 1 June 2007, Horton in Ribblesdale to Hawes

Wonderful weather and a shallow if rough climb out of Horton to the tops of Cam Fell and Dodd Fell. The books report this as an easy path, but the rough construction of the path is an obstacle in itself…I wonder how many broken ankles it claims per annum?

Despite the path problems, the views on this stretch of the Way are outstanding. This is one of England’s wildest and most remote areas and is truly beautiful.

It is a straightforward climb up to 560 metres (1840 feet), leaving Dodd Fell at 668 metres (2192 feet) for another day!

A gentle meander (through a field with several cows and a bull) and we drop into the very busy tourist village of Hawes. Excellent ice-cream in this old Roman market town…and also some scones at the local tea rooms which had obviously been there since Roman times! (the scones…maybe also the tea rooms…).

Worth knowing that there are two outdoor shops in the village, to top up on essentials…and a chemist with a good stock of Dr Scholls foot treatments.

Overnight in the YHA, again fairly busy, this time with a party from the Ramblers’ Association and some German schoolchildren. On an admin point, this YHA doesn’t open till 5.00 pm, so no point in arriving early to register but you can get access to the building for shelter, tea / coffee etc. Bunk beds again, with me on top this time; years since I’ve done this…doesn’t it shake when the person on the bottom rolls over! And getting back out of bed is a nightmare! Margarette couldn’t stop laughing.

Day 7, 31 May 2007, Gargrave to Horton in Ribblesdale

Our first seriously long day, at over 20 miles on our route. The late start was unhelpful. An easy walk from Gargrave towards Airton then Malham, only inconvenienced by an apparently wrongly-angled Way marker at Haw Crag losing us 40 minutes.

In Airton, interesting to see the old mill converted to “executive apartments”…miles from anywhere.

Into Malham and what a surprise. The whole village and surrounding area were celebrating “Evolution in Malham”, with very large fun models of dinosaurs, scary monsters, Dr Who characters and all sorts of other things…the village children had to collect as many animals as possible, plus sightings of small Tardis models hidden all over the village. The impression was that the whole village was playing and the atmosphere was wonderful.

Out of Malham, up the side of Malham Cove – a stiff climb up steps – then on to Malham Tarn, a large body of water in part artificial. A Way marker would have been useful at the top of the steps. After the Tarn, a pleasant walk as far as the eastern edge of Fountain’s Fell (668 metres), once farmed by the monks of Fountains Abbey.

Climbing the Fell was a stiff two hour climb, especially at the end of the day. We had decided, because of the late start, that if we didn’t reach to top of the Fell by 6.00 pm then Pen-y-ghent would not be safe to climb as we couldn’t guarantee to complete the route in daylight. Unfortunately, it was now 6.30 and becoming overcast.
Common sense prevailed and we descended over the Bracken Bottom Path into Horton.

Overnight into the Crown, where we met Richard (Mr Ferrari) and Adele, who are also covering the whole Way. All had too much to drink, partly because this is the end of the southern section of the Pennine Way. A milestone.

Day 6, 30 May 2007, Haworth to Gargrave

Only intermittent rain today. Funny how life comes to be dominated by weather when you’re exposed to the elements!

Having discovered that Haworth YHA was so far from the Way, it was much easier and more time saving to get a taxi to the start point. With hindsight and from talking to others, Ponden Hall is apparently best if one can get in there…it is also still buried ion the ‘60s, as is so much of this area.

Steep but relatively short climb onto Oakworth Moor, on a reasonably good path. A gentle walk onwards took us eventually to Lothersdale, where we had a packed lunch on the hilltop overlooking this tiny mill town, continued to be a quiet day, only meeting two other walkers, one a young lad doing a solo passage from North to South and the other a Grandfather and Grandson out for a three day walk on the moors – and looking terribly under equipped with only training shoes and no obvious wet-weather gear: good intentions can be dangerous, sometimes.

Approaching Gargrave, we followed the canal path, as it seemed more interesting. Narrow boats were using the lock system on the Leeds to Liverpool canal, with quite a few being used as permanent residences.
Overnight at the Mason’s Arms in Gargrave, with dinner in the Old Swan Inn. An interesting town, with many of the houses and shops still displaying Christmas decorations. The old Scottish word “dour” best describes our impressions. The Mason’s Arms was, however, clean and comfortable with plenty of room for drying out…unfortunately breakfast wasn’t served till 08:30 and was then very slow, setting us back over an hour and a half on our normal daily schedule…resulting in a much later arrival at Pen-y-ghent…but more, tomorrow

Day 5, 29 May 2007 , Hebden Bridge to Haworth

Following a heart breakfast, out of Hebden Bridge and straight into a very steep, very long, uphill slog towards Blackshaw Head and back onto the main Pennine Way. As we reached the Way, we spied Badgerfields Farm, now advertising as a B&B. Being right on the Way, this could prove very convenient for some although remote from Hebden Bridge.

An easy walk followed, in scattered clouds but dry weather, all the way across Heptonstall Moor on a relatively well defined path. The easy and relatively well-marked route continued all the way along Lower and Middle Walshaw Reservoirs, up to Top Withins.

Top Withins is the reputed “Wuthering Heights”, a formerly massive stone built large farmhouse on the edge of the moors. Still worth a visit to those interested in English Literature and its sources…it is easy to see why the Brontёs imagined and wrote as they did given the local climate and landscape.

For the walker, the descent into Haworth – if staying at the YHA – is long. Better to await the Number 665 bus which turns at Standby and passes the YHA.

We only had a brief glance at Haworth, noting every other shop is called “Brontё” something…but nonetheless, they seem to be making a reasonable go of sensibly exploiting the heritage.

Overnight in the comfortable YHA, eating in-house with a decent bottle of wine. Again, YHA excel with cheery, helpful staff, good catering and clean rooms. Just realised we’ve also had our first dry (weather!) day.

Tomorrow, the first really long day (>20 miles) in preparation for the stroll into Kirk Yetholm. Still two weeks away but we need to be getting our speed and timings sorted now to see what we need to aim for.