A dry day again, steady from Keld, past the Cartrake Force waterfall and an easy walk along the edge of Black Moor. Eventually reaching the famous Tan Hill Inn, where a drink stop is compulsory for all Way Walkers. Given its location it is easy to see why it is such a welcome sight on a bad day. Today however was wonderful; we simply stopped for tea and to phone Kenneth, asking him to log onto the webcam inside Tan Hill Inn so that we could wave to the family and reassure them we were in one piece, sane and sound.
After Tan Hill Inn, a boggy walk across Washfold Rigg along Frummington Beck. Mist was just descending and the marker poles proved useful…especially given the absence if any intermediate Way markers. This was also a chance for Margarette to practice bearings on the compass and learn how to do back bearings, given the descending mist. Shortly afterwards, all was clear and we had a pleasant lunch dangling our feet over one of the bridges…without, of course, removing the gaiters as that would have involved just too much work.
Eventually, a steady plod into the Bowes Loop and up to Bowes Castle and the Ancient Unicorn
coaching Inn which we reached just before the heavens opened. Good accommodation and reasonable food. This was the town Charles Dickens used in parts of Nicholas Nickleby…Dotheboys House is modelled on the school at the top of the village and Dickens stayed in the Unicorn in 1838.
Whilst it is an interesting historical village, it is, sadly, dying as a result of the A66 by-pass constructed 14 years ago. More houses up for sale than normal for such a small village, a combined Post Office and village shop which obviously doesn’t see much business and a generally depressed air about the houses. Perhaps lessons could be learned from Malham which is about the same size but a total contrast in approach to survival.
After Tan Hill Inn, a boggy walk across Washfold Rigg along Frummington Beck. Mist was just descending and the marker poles proved useful…especially given the absence if any intermediate Way markers. This was also a chance for Margarette to practice bearings on the compass and learn how to do back bearings, given the descending mist. Shortly afterwards, all was clear and we had a pleasant lunch dangling our feet over one of the bridges…without, of course, removing the gaiters as that would have involved just too much work.
Eventually, a steady plod into the Bowes Loop and up to Bowes Castle and the Ancient Unicorn
coaching Inn which we reached just before the heavens opened. Good accommodation and reasonable food. This was the town Charles Dickens used in parts of Nicholas Nickleby…Dotheboys House is modelled on the school at the top of the village and Dickens stayed in the Unicorn in 1838.Whilst it is an interesting historical village, it is, sadly, dying as a result of the A66 by-pass constructed 14 years ago. More houses up for sale than normal for such a small village, a combined Post Office and village shop which obviously doesn’t see much business and a generally depressed air about the houses. Perhaps lessons could be learned from Malham which is about the same size but a total contrast in approach to survival.
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