Wednesday 13 June 2007

Day 12, 5 June 2007, Langdon Beck to Dufton










Back down to the River Tees, not in full spate but rather gurgling rapidly…even as far upstream as this it clearly lives up to its potential as a river to be harnessed for power in the industrial revolution. From Widdy Bank the Way runs adjacent to the Tees and the path is easily followed and clearly marked. Not too much further along however there are scree and boulder fields which slow transit to a crawl. Walking poles are put away as all hands, knees and other protuberances are put to maintaining balance and progress. The area was dry as we passed: in wet weather this would be good ankle-snapping territory. We covered three scree and boulder fields in all, each about 200 yards long and each taking about 30 minutes.

In the distance was the thunder of Caldron Spout, where a major tributary to the Tees emerges from Cow Green Reservoir. As we neared, no obvious route round the waterfall was visible and it became clear that we would have to climb the rock walls. Seriously not funny, with rucsacks and boots. We lost track of time, but a guess is about 45 minutes from bottom to top and a height estimated at 30 metres.

Tired, we moved forward through Birkdale and had a tea break, entering the Warcop range area. For me this was my second visit: I had learned how to fire Chieftain main armament here in the early 1970’s. Major changes here, reflecting the withdrawal of UK forces from German training areas whilst retaining the requirement to be able to conduct live firing. There used to be a saying in Germany: “Jet noise, the sound of freedom”. Perhaps in today’s atmosphere, we should be reinforcing the peace-keeping and peace-enforcing role of the military rather than encouraging people to carp about their overseas commitments.

Across the training area to High Cup Nick, possibly the highest hanging valley in England with a sheer drop of about 270 metres on three sides. Spectacular barely describes the view on a clear day. Moving north round the valley edge on (usually) well-marked paths, we had a gentle descent into Dufton.

Into the YHA there at 3.30 pm, just as the manager – Annette – arrived to check the building. Opening is at 5.00 pm, but she gave us the run of the building including tea making, washing machines, showers, in advance. The YHA serves meals on request but the Stag’s Head, across the village green, has a reputation for good food: and lived up to it. This YHA is one of the older style but has most of the usual modern facilities – except Internet access: this is something YHA really do have to sort out. But certainly YHA Dufton is a happy, comfortable and clearly well-run establishment and a credit to its manager (and perhaps to the cat, cockerel, red squirrels and rabbits in the garden!)

Tomorrow it’s a long haul over high peaks to Alston.

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