Wednesday 13 June 2007

Day 9, 2 June 2007, Hawes to Keld




A walk through town then across fields to Hardraw Force waterfall, a bit weak at this time. Then a long shallow climb up what appears in places to be an old turnpike toad to Black Hill Moss then Great Shunner Fell. A beautiful day with light winds and occasional cloud cover but never a threat of rain. We’d left the heavier Berghaus and Sprayaway jackets in the main luggage for the first time, relying on the capes should we get caught out.

Again, stunning views of the Yorkshire wilderness as we ascended Black Hill Moss with the wind behind us. Both of us in good form, feeling fit and cheerful. Tea stop at the 2 hour point just short of the summit rather than in the four sided windbreak.

Lots of other walkers out today and of course Adele and Richard (Mr Ferrari) who at this point were an hour or so behind us. By late lunchtime we had reached Thwaite and the Kearton Brothers teashop and hotel. Reportedly, by those we spoke to, a good B&B. There we were caught up by A&R and met their “Support Team” – an uncle who had driven to meet them with some equipment requirements and a couple with whom A&R are walking the West Highland Way in late summer. A cheery, light lunch then on towards Keld.

Then a minor disaster. I mistook the junction at 903986 for that at 904986 and we took the lower path, directly adjacent to the barn. This lower path peters out after about a kilometre and we were faced with either returning to the junction or climbing up the steep valley side then over the dividing wall. We chose the latter and had a steep, not too safe, climb on all fours, with directions being shouted down to us by A&R who by now had not only caught up but also taken the right path. This decision of theirs was based on their Garmin readout…Richard has the latest wrist worn version (do I sound a little jealous?). Bottom line was that they got it right and we were wrong.

Once on the right track, we continued along Kisdon Side, about 200 metres above the valley floor and again with spectacular views. For those not wanting to take the high road, there is a good path on the valley floor.

Nearing Keld we heard the rush of Kisdon Force, one of the many waterfalls in the area.

B&B tonight at Butt House with the illustrious Doreen and Ernest Whitehead. They are a legend of the Way, with a direct manner (boots go on the shelves, sticks not allowed in rooms, you will clear your plate!) but really helpful. No sooner had we arrived than tea, warm scones and chocolate cake were available in the walkers’ sitting room. And they do this for all arrivals. The house is also licensed, with sensible prices for the necessarily limited stock of beer, wine etc. Regrettably, they retire next year and the Way will be the poorer for their departure.

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