Day 15, 8 June 2007, Greenhead to Bellingham

A long day ahead across the crags from Thirwall Castle and along Hadrian’s Wall for miles and miles. Hottest day so far and exhausted by the steep climbs and equally difficult descents. A fun interlude at Walltown where three school parties were having a Roman Day, with staff and pupils alike dressed in their versions of Romans, Picts etc.

We had walked this area last year when we did the whole of Hadrian’s Wall but it was no consolation as we knew ahead just how difficult it would be. Also incredibly hot and our water was running out fast. By the time we reached Hotbank Crags we were tired and soaked in sweat Just then a young Buddhist came along in bare feet, with no pack and looking delightfully cool: we just stared. Then up came an older woman leading her blind partner, again both looking quite relaxed. Time to stop feeling sorry for ourselves!

With about 5 hours walking ahead, in the hot sun, we headed north through parts of Kielder Forest and Haughton Common, dropping off the Way into Stonehaugh to top up our liquids at a local Forestry Commission house.

Then onwards to our B&B for the night at Bridgeford just outside Bellingham. No meals provided here but by prior arrangement the owners drove us into town and collected us again (the local taxi driver had gone to Newcastle on a job – 45 miles away by local roads). Bellingham is a quiet little town but with enough eateries to give a choice…we used the Cheviot Arms which was OK and as we were the only customers, we had exclusive service.

Bridgeford was an excellent B&B, even if we did have a 2.5 mile walk into town next morning. Still run as a farm but, in common with other farms in the area, the B&B is now the main income provider.

Certainly the longest day so far, particularly with the heat. But by this time our fitness level was rising and we didn’t feel as bad as we thought we should!