Wednesday 13 June 2007

Day 11, 4 June 2007, Bowes to Langdon Beck

A misty morning out of Bowes, visibility at 150 yards, and past the old chemical weapons storage site. Eerie atmosphere in the mist. An awkward climb across marshes around The Old Moss although as we crested the summit the mist lifted and views of Blackton Reservoir appeared. Goldsborough Carr, a high set of crags, had a boggy bottom so the gaiters stayed on for another day...making walking heavier and more tiring. Blisters were beginning to annoy – we hadn’t had many till now and they are easily treatable but when you are tired they are energy sapping.

En route at the Ancient Unicorn we had met David F, from Cheltenham. David is 79 and was on day 3 of his walk. He constantly outstripped us and another group of walkers. He also commented that he had been charged £10 for a three mile taxi ride from the Unicorn to God’s Bridge, which we all felt was exploitation by a local company who had tagged David’s ride onto the end of the weekday school run.

Anyway, a pleasant stroll across Hunderthwaite Moor, Hannah's Meadow and round Harter Fell till Middleton in Teesdale was in sight. Tea on the hills above the town was followed by a visit to the small town centre, with a nice, old-fashioned by prosperous feel about the place. Having re-stocked on Dr Scholl products at the local chemist, we indulged in ice-cream and meandered westwards along the Tees. There should be two impressive waterfalls here – Low and High Force – but recent weather had reduced both to a growl rather than a roar. Still impressive though and worth a visit if in the area.

A few miles further and into the YHA at Langdon Beck…small and modern and reportedly the highest YHA in England. Unfortunately there had recently been a fire in the main kitchen, so no meals were available. A 10 minute walk along a deserted country road took us to the Langdon Beck Hotel. Ever see the film “An American Werewolf in London” ? The food however was excellent and the situation belies the warm atmosphere…including the wood fire which was a welcome sight (yes, I know it’s supposed to be summer, but not in N. Yorkshire!). Worth noting that the hotel does not take credit or debit cards and only accepts cheques with a card number on the back. Cash seems OK, in fact pieces of eight are probably preferred tender.

Back to the YHA about 9.30 pm and still light outside. This had also been our first opportunity to catch up on washing clothes etc, although the warden had asked us not to use the tumble dryer unless we really had to…this in keeping with YHA policy on energy reduction. Unsurprisingly, al that happened was that using the tumble dryer was delayed till after the (cold) breakfast next morning, delaying our departure.

As this had been our longest day to date, we did feel YHA had not lived up to their usual very high standards.

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