Wednesday 13 June 2007

Reflections, Factsheets and comments.

Reflections

Initial thoughts are that walking the Pennine Way was a personal achievement. Spending 16 days, of often difficult walking, together – as a couple who’ve been together 41 years and married for 38 of them – was a great way to relive the intensity and excitement of our earlier years. We’ve done this together and I’m proud of that. Now, where did Margarette leave her foot cream?

Margarette also kept a diary during the walk and may publish it as another blog…if she does, we’ll link to this.


Factsheets and comments.

Baggage

We used Brigantes throughout. They were excellent.

Equipment

Everyone will have their own opinion and there is probably no “one size fits all”.

We found both lightweight and heavyweight waterproofs to be essential. As always, you get what you pay for: my jacket was Sprayaway, Margarette’s was Berghaus. We both had Berghaus waterproof trousers and carried Trek Mates Pak Ponchos.

Upper body clothing was either Berghaus or Helly Hansen. On the one occasion I wore short sleeves, I got badly sunburnt.

Lower body was Craghopper trousers (Margartette’s had knee zips). Neither of us took proper shorts, but should have.

Both boots were Berghaus. We also carried and frequently wore knee length gaiters and we found these invaluable.

Each of us carried a whistle; small torch; mobile phone (one Vodaphone, one Orange) in a ziplock bag; space blanket; survival bag; Silva compass; Harvey map or National Trail guide.

I carried a Berghaus 35 litre rucksack with integral waterproof cover; Margarette had a 20 litre Blacks day bag which fitted under her poncho.

Each of us carried 3 litres of liquid per day plus a flask of tea. On the last day we each carried an extra litre.

Most days we had packed lunches from the Hostels but these were usually too much and were rarely finished during the day. We each carried a heavy-duty polythene sandwich box to ensure the lunch stayed dry.

I had a Silva GPS running Version 2.15 of the software. It was rarely used and was never accurate: this inaccuracy caused me to lose confidence in it.. Very disappointing and I’ve sent it back to Silva. Others, using Garmin, were more satisfied.

Accommodation.

Listed below are the addresses we used. Whilst some were better than others, all were perfectly acceptable.



Overnight: 25th May (Friday)

Castleton YHA, Hope Valley Derbyshire S33 8WG
Telephone no: 0870 770 5758Fax no: (+44) 1433 621767



Email: castleton@yha.org.uk
Grid Reference: SK150828
Then taxi to Edale to start walk.


Day 2 26th May (Saturday)
Crowden-in-Longdendale YHA


Glossop


Derbyshire


SK13 1HZ


Telephone no: 0870 770 5784


Fax no: (+44) 1457 852135



Email: crowden@yha.org.uk

Day 3. 27 May (Sunday)
Eric & Sue Langdon
Wellcroft House
Bleak Hay Nook
Delph
Standedge
Saddleworth
OL3 5LY

Day 4: 28 May (Monday)
Mytholm House
Mytholm Bank
Hebden Bridge
West Yorkshire
HX7 6DL
01422 847493
Grid ref: SD 983 274

Day 5: 29 May (Tuesday)
YHA Longlands Drive Lees Lane


Haworth


Keighley


West Yorkshire BD22 8RT
Telephone no: 0870 770 5858


Fax no: (+44) 1535 643023


Email: mailto:haworth@yha.org.uk%20
Grid SE038378


Day 6: 30 May (Wednesday)
The Masons Arms
Marton Road


Gargrave


North YorkshireBD23 3NL


England


United Kingdom
+44(01756)749304

Day 7: 31 May (Thursday)
The Crown Hotel
Horton-in Ribblesdale,


Nr. SettleNorth


Yorkshire


BD24 0HF
Telephone 01729 860 209

Day 8 1 June 2007. (Friday)
YHA
Lancaster Terrace


Hawes North


Yorkshire


DL8 3LQ
Grid Reference: 868898

Day 9. 2 June 2007 (Saturday)
Ernest & Doreen Whitehead


Butt House


Keld,


Richmond,


North Yorkshire.


DL11 6LJ


Tel: 01748 886374.


Email:mailto:butthouse@supanet.com


Web Site: http://www.coasttocoastguides.co.uk/
O.S. Map Ref: NY 893 009.




Day 10. 3 June 2007. (Sunday)
Ancient Unicorn
Bowes
DL12 9HL
Telephone: 01833628321


Day 11 4 June 2007 (Monday)
YHA
Forest-in-Teesdale


Barnard Castle


Co. Durham


DL12 0XN
Telephone no: 0870 770 5910


Fax no: (+44) 1833 622372


Email: mailto:langdonbeck@yha.org.uk%20
Grid Reference: 860304


Day 12 5 June (Tuesday)
YHA Dufton


Appleby


Cumbria


CA16 6DB
Telephone no: 0870 770 5800


Fax no: (+44) 17683 53798


Email: mailto:dufton@yha.org.uk%20
Grid Reference: OS 91, GR688251

Day 13 6 June (Wednesday)
YHA
The Firs


Alston


Cumbria


CA9 3RW
Telephone no: 0870 770 5668


Fax no: (+44) 1434 382401


Email: mailto:alston@yha.org.uk%20
Grid Reference: NY717461

Day 14 7 June (Thursday)
YHA
Greenhead Hotel
Greenhead


Brampton


Cumbria


CA8 7HG
Telephone no: 01697 747411


Email: mailto:dougsandragreenh@btconnect.com%20

Day 15 8 June (Friday)
Bridgeford


Mrs Wallace


Bellingham


NE48 2HU


isobel.wallace@btconnect.com
Telephone: 01434 220940

Day 16 9 June (Saturday)
YHA
7 Otterburn Green


Byrness


Newcastle-upon-Tyne


Northumberland


NE19 1TS
Telephone no: 0870 770 5740


Email: joycetaylor1703@hotmail.co.uk
Grid Reference: 764027


Day 17 10 June (Sunday)
YHA Kirk Yetholm
Kelso
Roxburghshire TD5 8PG
Telephone: 8700041132
Fax: 01573 420631
Grid Reference: NT825283 (OS Map) Map Reference: O.S.74 (GR 826282)

Day 17, 10 June 2007, Byrness to Kirk Yetholm

05:30 hrs: Departed from Byrness in light rain and thick mist. 200yards from the YHA, began the steep climb through the trees on the rocky path up Byrness Hill, scrambling over the crags at the top. Visibility about 20 yards in thick, low cloud. Deadly quiet, not even the birds were up and the only faint sound the dripping of water from the trees and our laboured breathing. Walking poles slipping on the wet stones…don’t look up because the route is steep and the Way hidden by overhanging branches. No real path, only the deep, muddy footprints of our predecessors and polished rock from their boots.

40 minutes later we’re at the top. Visibility still hasn’t improved and we’re already into walking on a compass bearing. Deep bog over to Houx Hill and we find a fence-line to confirm our navigation. Margarette’s sense of humour shines through and she leaves a note for the others telling them we’ve just had our first tea stop of the day and they should get a move on.

Wet and cold, but at the beginning of our long day, we plod on, changing direction every few yards to find a dryer, sounder route. Then off to my left, a splash and a cry. Margarette is flat out, up to the waist in bog and leaning forward to hold some firmer tufts of marsh grass. Off comes her pack, to slow down her slippage into the bog then slowly she is dragged to firmer ground, soaked through and a little shaken. Survival bag and space blanket were ready, but she decided to move to firmer ground and keep moving in the hope of staying warm that way. So far we’ve covered about 2.5 miles with 24 to go and discuss turning back. But not for long. Margarette is determined to continue and the poncho cape is keeping her warm enough for now.

The weather doesn’t improve all morning. We slog on, having short tea stops and trying to reduce the weight of our packs by drinking the extra liquids we’ve brought. Nick catches up with us and stays as far as the bothy at Yearning Saddle. At least his presence confirmed our navigation and his company reassuring if Margarette had got any colder. However the bothy lived up to its reputation and afforded a chance for a rest and some (relative) warmth. Whilst we were there, Peter, Tony and Ron also passed.

By early afternoon the cloud lifted a little. The many miles of paths laid by the National Trust were worth their weight in gold given the low visibility and boggy conditions. We caught up with Ron having a break, prior to his descent at Clennell Street and he cheered us up by saying some of the others were only a little way ahead. In moving forward, we met a party of three, one of whom was blind, coming South and starting their long day. Shortly after, Richard and Adele caught up on us and we walked on together for some time.

We four then caught Peter and Tony at King’s Seat, relaxed as usual and deciding to tackle the top of The Cheviot. Whilst we were gathered at King’s Seat we all had a moan about the weather (visibility was dropping again) but knew that by now we had not only broken the back of the longest day but were shortly to start the first descent.

Margarette and I rounded The Cheviot and had our final tea stop in the bothy just west of West Cairn Hill. Margarette was able to change into dry socks for some respite, despite still being otherwise soaked, even inside her boots. She was bearing up wonderfully. Once over the last major hill (The Schil, at 605 metres)


we took the low route towards Kirk Yetholm. Hilltop visibility was still effectively zero and we had only seen the Cheviots for about half an hour all day. Then, ascending towards us on the wooden boardwalk, were three younger walkers out for a day walk in t-shirts and shorts, proving there are madder people in the world than us! They in turn were followed by a party of four on a circular walk: they had completed the Pennine Way many years before and were just out for a ramble for the afternoon…in low visibility and light rain.

Eventually we reached Kirk Yetholm, just after 6 o’clock and 13 hours walking. No bands! Even better, Kenneth – our son – was there with a bottle of champagne and transport home. A pint in “The Border” pub then off to the SYHA to shower and change. However, later that evening we gathered in The Border for a celebratory dinner and a great time was had by all.

Day 16, 9 June 2007, Bellingham to Byrness


An easy and pleasant 15 miles today, mainly in company of the group who are also aiming to complete the Way on Sunday.

...Adele and Richard from Sheffield, known to ourselves as “The Ferrarris” who seem to have gradually adopted a more relaxed attitude to timekeeping and average speeds over the last few days.

...Nick, from Bournemouth, who is fitter and faster than any of us yet occasionally drops back to join one of small groups for some company.

...Peter and Tony, completing the second half of the Way from Bowes to Kirk Yetholm. Totally relaxed, loathe to pass an open pub and like two English cricketing gentlemen out for a day’s stroll, simply eating up the miles with a rolling pace.

...Ron, probably the more experience walker, especially as he keeps leaving things behind and ends up gong back for them therefore walking twice the distance yet never loses his sense of humour…and always the first to offer help to anyone.

…and finally Mark from Adelaide. Mark was walking from Land’s End to John O’ Groats. In his gardening shoes. With 300+ small pieces of paper making up his strip map. A diet of chocolate. And the smallest backpack of any of us.

None of us were in a formal group, but all the way to Byrness we mixed and matched as the conversation took us, finally stopping for coffee and ice-cream at the café – and only shop – in Byrness. A good, happy and satisfying day although in the back of all our minds was the thought of tomorrow: the 26 mile slog across deep bogs and up steep hills to the finishing point.

YHA Byrness is two small, converted Forestry Commission houses. Frozen meals are available for dinner and the warden will take orders for early breakfast (which she leaves out and you heat yourself) and packed lunches. No alcohol for sale. An alternative is to make a prior meal booking with the Byrness Hotel: not really a hotel at the moment, but a B&B. Nearest pub is 5 miles away (price for a taxi was quoted as £10 each way).

Day 15, 8 June 2007, Greenhead to Bellingham

A long day ahead across the crags from Thirwall Castle and along Hadrian’s Wall for miles and miles. Hottest day so far and exhausted by the steep climbs and equally difficult descents. A fun interlude at Walltown where three school parties were having a Roman Day, with staff and pupils alike dressed in their versions of Romans, Picts etc.

We had walked this area last year when we did the whole of Hadrian’s Wall but it was no consolation as we knew ahead just how difficult it would be. Also incredibly hot and our water was running out fast. By the time we reached Hotbank Crags we were tired and soaked in sweat Just then a young Buddhist came along in bare feet, with no pack and looking delightfully cool: we just stared. Then up came an older woman leading her blind partner, again both looking quite relaxed. Time to stop feeling sorry for ourselves!

With about 5 hours walking ahead, in the hot sun, we headed north through parts of Kielder Forest and Haughton Common, dropping off the Way into Stonehaugh to top up our liquids at a local Forestry Commission house.

Then onwards to our B&B for the night at Bridgeford just outside Bellingham. No meals provided here but by prior arrangement the owners drove us into town and collected us again (the local taxi driver had gone to Newcastle on a job – 45 miles away by local roads). Bellingham is a quiet little town but with enough eateries to give a choice…we used the Cheviot Arms which was OK and as we were the only customers, we had exclusive service.

Bridgeford was an excellent B&B, even if we did have a 2.5 mile walk into town next morning. Still run as a farm but, in common with other farms in the area, the B&B is now the main income provider.

Certainly the longest day so far, particularly with the heat. But by this time our fitness level was rising and we didn’t feel as bad as we thought we should!

Day 14, 7 June 2007, Alston to Greenhead


Out of Alston YHA for 09:00 hrs, running straight into a Police checkpoint for the Appleby Horse Fair which is on this week and has both equine and human visitors from all over the world. Along quiet country lanes which ramble across the countryside – in this area, the Way seems to lose impetus and meander gently northwards as if to give you a rest in preparation for the harder days to come.

Stopped in the wonderfully named village of Slaggyford for our packed lunch, sharing it with a local horse and three free-range hens. The on northwards across easy going which turned out to be just lulling us into a false sense of security. Blenkinsopp Common was approached as evening was just beginning and we should have had just a couple of miles to go.

The Way passes through an untidy, run-down farmyard immediately before the Common. Signposting is good until you cross the stile into the thick marsh grass. Nominally, the Way curves in a lazy left handed sweep for a few hundred yards then you take a path almost due North. This we never did see nor did any of those travelling that day. In fact, a more experienced member of the people walking that day was on his second attempt to cross the Common, having lost hi compass and been flooded out on a previous occasion.

Hard walking over heavy going, with detailed map and compass work was required…a real nuisance as we knew the town could only be a few miles away, round one of the small valley heads. Reception for the GPS was poor so it was useless: we decided to walk on a bearing to a marked fence line and navigate out from there. In the jostle a few days later, we discovered everyone had the same problem on this piece of moor: perhaps National Trust should reassess the signs there.

Eventually into Greenhead and a short walk down the old A69 to the YHA. Again, a privatised dormitory style YHA recently taken over by the (new) owners of the local pub, the Greenhead Hotel. The YHA doesn’t do meals (although there is the usual Members’ kitchen) so it was over to the hotel to eat. Accepting that the owners are new and managing both the YHA and the local pub, they still have some way to go on the YHA side to reach the normal standard, but nothing that some maintenance, a lick of paint and the gaining of more experience by the young Warden won’t put right.

Good news of the day: end of the “Pennine Way Central” map…on to the last sheet!

Day 13, 6 June 2007, Dufton to Alston






Breakfast in Dufton YHA: No scrambled eggs as Annette hates washing the pan! But her poached eggs were great. Red squirrels, cat and cockerel (plus all the rabbits) in the garden. A really friendly YHA.

Clear, warm to hot day as we started the climb to Great Dun Fell and Cross Fell – the highest points on the Way at 848 and 893 metres respectively. About 4 hours climbing, but on an easy and well marked route. Some photos of the NATS radar installation (old habits die hard!).

The descent was another matter, as we passed through multiple old fluorspar and lead minings which had left their scars on the scenery. The old mine road formed the path, about 4 Km of mine tails and another 6 Km of rough stone. Really hard and slow walking, sore on both boots, feet and ankles. Main point of interest was Greg’s Bothy, still in use and well maintained.

We eventually took the Leadgate Road footpath as an exit from this torment, also shortcutting the route by about 2 Km. Across the South Tyne River then through pleasant meadows up to Alston, tired, sore and hungry. We ate in the YHA: again, food plentiful and good. Met up there with a group from Rawlins Community College riding the Coast to Coast over 4 days at about 154 miles. Lots of noise late at night, but surely no surprise with 12 or so teenagers in the building!

Alston is one of the privatised YHAs and is run by a couple with previous experience in Swaledale and they are a great example of how privatisation can work well.

Haven’t been able to get into Alston as feet are too sore and we’re tired (being wimps). Another 20 miles tomorrow, from Alston to Greenhead.

Day 12, 5 June 2007, Langdon Beck to Dufton










Back down to the River Tees, not in full spate but rather gurgling rapidly…even as far upstream as this it clearly lives up to its potential as a river to be harnessed for power in the industrial revolution. From Widdy Bank the Way runs adjacent to the Tees and the path is easily followed and clearly marked. Not too much further along however there are scree and boulder fields which slow transit to a crawl. Walking poles are put away as all hands, knees and other protuberances are put to maintaining balance and progress. The area was dry as we passed: in wet weather this would be good ankle-snapping territory. We covered three scree and boulder fields in all, each about 200 yards long and each taking about 30 minutes.

In the distance was the thunder of Caldron Spout, where a major tributary to the Tees emerges from Cow Green Reservoir. As we neared, no obvious route round the waterfall was visible and it became clear that we would have to climb the rock walls. Seriously not funny, with rucsacks and boots. We lost track of time, but a guess is about 45 minutes from bottom to top and a height estimated at 30 metres.

Tired, we moved forward through Birkdale and had a tea break, entering the Warcop range area. For me this was my second visit: I had learned how to fire Chieftain main armament here in the early 1970’s. Major changes here, reflecting the withdrawal of UK forces from German training areas whilst retaining the requirement to be able to conduct live firing. There used to be a saying in Germany: “Jet noise, the sound of freedom”. Perhaps in today’s atmosphere, we should be reinforcing the peace-keeping and peace-enforcing role of the military rather than encouraging people to carp about their overseas commitments.

Across the training area to High Cup Nick, possibly the highest hanging valley in England with a sheer drop of about 270 metres on three sides. Spectacular barely describes the view on a clear day. Moving north round the valley edge on (usually) well-marked paths, we had a gentle descent into Dufton.

Into the YHA there at 3.30 pm, just as the manager – Annette – arrived to check the building. Opening is at 5.00 pm, but she gave us the run of the building including tea making, washing machines, showers, in advance. The YHA serves meals on request but the Stag’s Head, across the village green, has a reputation for good food: and lived up to it. This YHA is one of the older style but has most of the usual modern facilities – except Internet access: this is something YHA really do have to sort out. But certainly YHA Dufton is a happy, comfortable and clearly well-run establishment and a credit to its manager (and perhaps to the cat, cockerel, red squirrels and rabbits in the garden!)

Tomorrow it’s a long haul over high peaks to Alston.

Day 11, 4 June 2007, Bowes to Langdon Beck

A misty morning out of Bowes, visibility at 150 yards, and past the old chemical weapons storage site. Eerie atmosphere in the mist. An awkward climb across marshes around The Old Moss although as we crested the summit the mist lifted and views of Blackton Reservoir appeared. Goldsborough Carr, a high set of crags, had a boggy bottom so the gaiters stayed on for another day...making walking heavier and more tiring. Blisters were beginning to annoy – we hadn’t had many till now and they are easily treatable but when you are tired they are energy sapping.

En route at the Ancient Unicorn we had met David F, from Cheltenham. David is 79 and was on day 3 of his walk. He constantly outstripped us and another group of walkers. He also commented that he had been charged £10 for a three mile taxi ride from the Unicorn to God’s Bridge, which we all felt was exploitation by a local company who had tagged David’s ride onto the end of the weekday school run.

Anyway, a pleasant stroll across Hunderthwaite Moor, Hannah's Meadow and round Harter Fell till Middleton in Teesdale was in sight. Tea on the hills above the town was followed by a visit to the small town centre, with a nice, old-fashioned by prosperous feel about the place. Having re-stocked on Dr Scholl products at the local chemist, we indulged in ice-cream and meandered westwards along the Tees. There should be two impressive waterfalls here – Low and High Force – but recent weather had reduced both to a growl rather than a roar. Still impressive though and worth a visit if in the area.

A few miles further and into the YHA at Langdon Beck…small and modern and reportedly the highest YHA in England. Unfortunately there had recently been a fire in the main kitchen, so no meals were available. A 10 minute walk along a deserted country road took us to the Langdon Beck Hotel. Ever see the film “An American Werewolf in London” ? The food however was excellent and the situation belies the warm atmosphere…including the wood fire which was a welcome sight (yes, I know it’s supposed to be summer, but not in N. Yorkshire!). Worth noting that the hotel does not take credit or debit cards and only accepts cheques with a card number on the back. Cash seems OK, in fact pieces of eight are probably preferred tender.

Back to the YHA about 9.30 pm and still light outside. This had also been our first opportunity to catch up on washing clothes etc, although the warden had asked us not to use the tumble dryer unless we really had to…this in keeping with YHA policy on energy reduction. Unsurprisingly, al that happened was that using the tumble dryer was delayed till after the (cold) breakfast next morning, delaying our departure.

As this had been our longest day to date, we did feel YHA had not lived up to their usual very high standards.

Day 10, 3 June 2007, Keld to Bowes



A dry day again, steady from Keld, past the Cartrake Force waterfall and an easy walk along the edge of Black Moor. Eventually reaching the famous Tan Hill Inn, where a drink stop is compulsory for all Way Walkers. Given its location it is easy to see why it is such a welcome sight on a bad day. Today however was wonderful; we simply stopped for tea and to phone Kenneth, asking him to log onto the webcam inside Tan Hill Inn so that we could wave to the family and reassure them we were in one piece, sane and sound.

After Tan Hill Inn, a boggy walk across Washfold Rigg along Frummington Beck. Mist was just descending and the marker poles proved useful…especially given the absence if any intermediate Way markers. This was also a chance for Margarette to practice bearings on the compass and learn how to do back bearings, given the descending mist. Shortly afterwards, all was clear and we had a pleasant lunch dangling our feet over one of the bridges…without, of course, removing the gaiters as that would have involved just too much work.

Eventually, a steady plod into the Bowes Loop and up to Bowes Castle and the Ancient Unicorn coaching Inn which we reached just before the heavens opened. Good accommodation and reasonable food. This was the town Charles Dickens used in parts of Nicholas Nickleby…Dotheboys House is modelled on the school at the top of the village and Dickens stayed in the Unicorn in 1838.

Whilst it is an interesting historical village, it is, sadly, dying as a result of the A66 by-pass constructed 14 years ago. More houses up for sale than normal for such a small village, a combined Post Office and village shop which obviously doesn’t see much business and a generally depressed air about the houses. Perhaps lessons could be learned from Malham which is about the same size but a total contrast in approach to survival.

Day 9, 2 June 2007, Hawes to Keld




A walk through town then across fields to Hardraw Force waterfall, a bit weak at this time. Then a long shallow climb up what appears in places to be an old turnpike toad to Black Hill Moss then Great Shunner Fell. A beautiful day with light winds and occasional cloud cover but never a threat of rain. We’d left the heavier Berghaus and Sprayaway jackets in the main luggage for the first time, relying on the capes should we get caught out.

Again, stunning views of the Yorkshire wilderness as we ascended Black Hill Moss with the wind behind us. Both of us in good form, feeling fit and cheerful. Tea stop at the 2 hour point just short of the summit rather than in the four sided windbreak.

Lots of other walkers out today and of course Adele and Richard (Mr Ferrari) who at this point were an hour or so behind us. By late lunchtime we had reached Thwaite and the Kearton Brothers teashop and hotel. Reportedly, by those we spoke to, a good B&B. There we were caught up by A&R and met their “Support Team” – an uncle who had driven to meet them with some equipment requirements and a couple with whom A&R are walking the West Highland Way in late summer. A cheery, light lunch then on towards Keld.

Then a minor disaster. I mistook the junction at 903986 for that at 904986 and we took the lower path, directly adjacent to the barn. This lower path peters out after about a kilometre and we were faced with either returning to the junction or climbing up the steep valley side then over the dividing wall. We chose the latter and had a steep, not too safe, climb on all fours, with directions being shouted down to us by A&R who by now had not only caught up but also taken the right path. This decision of theirs was based on their Garmin readout…Richard has the latest wrist worn version (do I sound a little jealous?). Bottom line was that they got it right and we were wrong.

Once on the right track, we continued along Kisdon Side, about 200 metres above the valley floor and again with spectacular views. For those not wanting to take the high road, there is a good path on the valley floor.

Nearing Keld we heard the rush of Kisdon Force, one of the many waterfalls in the area.

B&B tonight at Butt House with the illustrious Doreen and Ernest Whitehead. They are a legend of the Way, with a direct manner (boots go on the shelves, sticks not allowed in rooms, you will clear your plate!) but really helpful. No sooner had we arrived than tea, warm scones and chocolate cake were available in the walkers’ sitting room. And they do this for all arrivals. The house is also licensed, with sensible prices for the necessarily limited stock of beer, wine etc. Regrettably, they retire next year and the Way will be the poorer for their departure.

Day 8. 1 June 2007, Horton in Ribblesdale to Hawes



Wonderful weather and a shallow if rough climb out of Horton to the tops of Cam Fell and Dodd Fell. The books report this as an easy path, but the rough construction of the path is an obstacle in itself…I wonder how many broken ankles it claims per annum?

Despite the path problems, the views on this stretch of the Way are outstanding. This is one of England’s wildest and most remote areas and is truly beautiful.

It is a straightforward climb up to 560 metres (1840 feet), leaving Dodd Fell at 668 metres (2192 feet) for another day!

A gentle meander (through a field with several cows and a bull) and we drop into the very busy tourist village of Hawes. Excellent ice-cream in this old Roman market town…and also some scones at the local tea rooms which had obviously been there since Roman times! (the scones…maybe also the tea rooms…).

Worth knowing that there are two outdoor shops in the village, to top up on essentials…and a chemist with a good stock of Dr Scholls foot treatments.

Overnight in the YHA, again fairly busy, this time with a party from the Ramblers’ Association and some German schoolchildren. On an admin point, this YHA doesn’t open till 5.00 pm, so no point in arriving early to register but you can get access to the building for shelter, tea / coffee etc. Bunk beds again, with me on top this time; years since I’ve done this…doesn’t it shake when the person on the bottom rolls over! And getting back out of bed is a nightmare! Margarette couldn’t stop laughing.

Day 7, 31 May 2007, Gargrave to Horton in Ribblesdale

Our first seriously long day, at over 20 miles on our route. The late start was unhelpful. An easy walk from Gargrave towards Airton then Malham, only inconvenienced by an apparently wrongly-angled Way marker at Haw Crag losing us 40 minutes.

In Airton, interesting to see the old mill converted to “executive apartments”…miles from anywhere.

Into Malham and what a surprise. The whole village and surrounding area were celebrating “Evolution in Malham”, with very large fun models of dinosaurs, scary monsters, Dr Who characters and all sorts of other things…the village children had to collect as many animals as possible, plus sightings of small Tardis models hidden all over the village. The impression was that the whole village was playing and the atmosphere was wonderful.

Out of Malham, up the side of Malham Cove – a stiff climb up steps – then on to Malham Tarn, a large body of water in part artificial. A Way marker would have been useful at the top of the steps. After the Tarn, a pleasant walk as far as the eastern edge of Fountain’s Fell (668 metres), once farmed by the monks of Fountains Abbey.

Climbing the Fell was a stiff two hour climb, especially at the end of the day. We had decided, because of the late start, that if we didn’t reach to top of the Fell by 6.00 pm then Pen-y-ghent would not be safe to climb as we couldn’t guarantee to complete the route in daylight. Unfortunately, it was now 6.30 and becoming overcast.
Common sense prevailed and we descended over the Bracken Bottom Path into Horton.

Overnight into the Crown, where we met Richard (Mr Ferrari) and Adele, who are also covering the whole Way. All had too much to drink, partly because this is the end of the southern section of the Pennine Way. A milestone.

Day 6, 30 May 2007, Haworth to Gargrave



Only intermittent rain today. Funny how life comes to be dominated by weather when you’re exposed to the elements!

Having discovered that Haworth YHA was so far from the Way, it was much easier and more time saving to get a taxi to the start point. With hindsight and from talking to others, Ponden Hall is apparently best if one can get in there…it is also still buried ion the ‘60s, as is so much of this area.

Steep but relatively short climb onto Oakworth Moor, on a reasonably good path. A gentle walk onwards took us eventually to Lothersdale, where we had a packed lunch on the hilltop overlooking this tiny mill town, continued to be a quiet day, only meeting two other walkers, one a young lad doing a solo passage from North to South and the other a Grandfather and Grandson out for a three day walk on the moors – and looking terribly under equipped with only training shoes and no obvious wet-weather gear: good intentions can be dangerous, sometimes.

Approaching Gargrave, we followed the canal path, as it seemed more interesting. Narrow boats were using the lock system on the Leeds to Liverpool canal, with quite a few being used as permanent residences.
Overnight at the Mason’s Arms in Gargrave, with dinner in the Old Swan Inn. An interesting town, with many of the houses and shops still displaying Christmas decorations. The old Scottish word “dour” best describes our impressions. The Mason’s Arms was, however, clean and comfortable with plenty of room for drying out…unfortunately breakfast wasn’t served till 08:30 and was then very slow, setting us back over an hour and a half on our normal daily schedule…resulting in a much later arrival at Pen-y-ghent…but more, tomorrow

Day 5, 29 May 2007 , Hebden Bridge to Haworth






Following a heart breakfast, out of Hebden Bridge and straight into a very steep, very long, uphill slog towards Blackshaw Head and back onto the main Pennine Way. As we reached the Way, we spied Badgerfields Farm, now advertising as a B&B. Being right on the Way, this could prove very convenient for some although remote from Hebden Bridge.

An easy walk followed, in scattered clouds but dry weather, all the way across Heptonstall Moor on a relatively well defined path. The easy and relatively well-marked route continued all the way along Lower and Middle Walshaw Reservoirs, up to Top Withins.

Top Withins is the reputed “Wuthering Heights”, a formerly massive stone built large farmhouse on the edge of the moors. Still worth a visit to those interested in English Literature and its sources…it is easy to see why the Brontёs imagined and wrote as they did given the local climate and landscape.

For the walker, the descent into Haworth – if staying at the YHA – is long. Better to await the Number 665 bus which turns at Standby and passes the YHA.

We only had a brief glance at Haworth, noting every other shop is called “Brontё” something…but nonetheless, they seem to be making a reasonable go of sensibly exploiting the heritage.

Overnight in the comfortable YHA, eating in-house with a decent bottle of wine. Again, YHA excel with cheery, helpful staff, good catering and clean rooms. Just realised we’ve also had our first dry (weather!) day.

Tomorrow, the first really long day (>20 miles) in preparation for the stroll into Kirk Yetholm. Still two weeks away but we need to be getting our speed and timings sorted now to see what we need to aim for.

Day 4: 28 May, Standedge to Hebden Bridge










We’ve decided to call today “Togetherness Day”, as it is 41 years to the day since we met at the 50th Anniversary Cub Scout Camp at Erskine Hospital near Glasgow and the Erskine Ferry. Margarette and I didn’t know each other, but ended up on both dishwashing duty and also all-night patrol of a campsite with around 2000 Cub Scouts. I fancied her immediately and suggested a midnight trip on my yacht (actually, thew old Erskine Ferry, chain driven across the River Clyde). Dazzled by my sparkling wit and personality, Margarette agreed to desert our charges for a short ride. 10 minutes later, we arrived on the north side of the Clyde…only to find it had been the last ferry of the evening. The Captain, respectfully called “Sir” on this occasion, thought this was hilarious but did agree to run us back across the river. 2000 little children could sleep safely in their camp beds (whilst I tried my damdest to seduce their protector. Unsuccessfully, I might add.

Two weeks later I asked her to marry me – well, I was 16, had just finished my “O” Levels and the world was my oyster. She told me not to be so daft and come back in three years if I was still interested. I did, and still am.

This is all a long way of describing why we took so long to leave to leave Black Hey Nook…the seduction technique finally paid off.. I’m still convinced, though, that she only stays out of curiosity.

Anyway…an easy walk followed, north across the M62 and north to Blackstone Edge. The rain finally gave way to severe hail, so we took temporary shelter in a stone horse-shoe…thanks to whoever built it. . Out on the Edge, the hail became more severe and we were forced into a crack in the rocks, till it passed. Again, decent waterproofs and warm weather gear paid off, even in England in May.

Lighter hail and rain continued along the western sides of the reservoirs, with a little protection afforded by the perimeter wall. Once on to Warland Drain the weather lightened, with just a biting wind and some rain as far as the monument at Stoodley Pike. Originally built to commemorate the battle of Waterloo, it had fallen down in 1854 and was rebuilt in its present, very Yorkshire, solid form in 1856. An ever increasing slope down into Hebden Bridge followed, across both the River Calder and Rochdale Canal.

Smoke stacks from former mills dotted the town, blackened by the coals of long closed steam and cotton mills and souls of satanic mill owners. Actually, history suggests they weren’t all bad and that the more successful were quite enlightened in their views, providing basic schooling up to age 9 and some job security, as long as you used the mill shops and lived in a tied cottage. This area is littered with the derelict ruins of farmhouses from this period, as people moved into the mill towns for a better standard of living. From this gradually grew the second industrial revolution with education (to age 14) for all in1896 and eventually the National Health Service after WW II....

Bed for tonight was the B&B at Mytholm House…not too easy to find but warm and comfortable once there, with large beds, bedrooms and breakfasts.

Unfortunately, Hebden Bridge itself is a little off the beaten track for Way Walkers. It is an interesting town trying hard to recover its former glories as an important mill town and later as one of the English centres of the 1960’s hippie movement. Some of the latter still live in the town, but sadly it only gives the impression of a less than successful Hay on Wye.

Tomorrow is towards Haworth and Brontё country.

Day 3: 27 May, Crowden to Standedge


Following a good breakfast at Crowden YHA, we left in the rain. A staggered group of about 8 walkers, about 250 yards apart, made their way up the steep sided, craggy, Black Tor. A narrow, but not too dangerous pathway with steep drops to the east…fortunately, we had an easterly wind blowing us onto the valley side rather than into the gulf below! Still, with squally and heavy showers of both rain and sleet, it was hard going and took nearly an hour to Laddow Rocks, about 1.5 miles. Another mile or so and the pathway levelled off, running on flagstones on deep, peat bog. Today however, despite the rain, the bog had almost dried out…perhaps a sign of the dry winter.

After this it was a steady, shallow climb again in hail and rain towards the A62 road. Let no-one tell you good, waterproof gloves are not essential in England in early summer! A small caravan selling hot drinks and bacon rolls was a welcome sight in the layby. All the group who had left Crowden were gathered there, cheerful but very cold and wet, even with expensive array of Berghaus, Helly Hansen and Sprayaway equipment on display! To be fair, this was largely because we had stopped wal;king and not adjusted our layers accordingly.

In passing, this is also the area where the Moors Murderers reportedly buried their victims. A few thoughts for those children was in order.

A surfaced path, then, along Wessenden Moor with a simple descent but steep ascent across a small valley towards Black Moss and a long, steady plod – again in hail and rain – to the reservoir. Water levels again very low and we sheltered for some tea in the lee of the dam abutments.

Then a quick jaunt up to our overnight accommodation at Eric & Sue Landon’s B&B at Bleak Hay Nook. A bit difficult to find, but – this year at least – look out for the burnt-out pub on the A62…their house is just behind it. They were very welcoming, prepared to provide a meal if required but we decided to eat out. You see, it was a special occasion as Margarette and I had met 41 years ago on 28 May so we decided to treat ourselves. Eric kindly drove us into the local village (Small Mills?) where we dined at the “Dinnerstore”. Food and service were excellent.
This morning, after breakfast cooked by Eric and with sandwiches prepared by Sue (…by the way, just found out Margarette doesn’t like cheese and pickle sandwiches…ah well, even after 41 years there’s obviously still some exploring to be done…) we set off in only light rain .

Day 2: 26 May 2007, Edale to Crowden via Kinder Downfall & Bleaklow










Breakfast at Castleton YHA: stock up, as it’s going to be a long day. Taxi arrived at 08:30 to take us to Edale for a 9.00 start and so far everything is looking good. Weather is fine, with some showers expected but otherwise overcast and fine…good walking weather.

A photo call at the Nag’s Head in Edale is, of course, compulsory. Then, approach the start line actually, the “No Parking” white line, and we’re off! Up Peat Lane, over the first stile and along the side of Broadlee-Bank Tor, slowly climbing. Gentle stuff, no-one in sight (strange for a Saturday morning) . At Upper Booth, disappointed to find they no longer sell local ice-cream but we plough on nonetheless steadily approaching Jacob’s Ladder: Margarette’s nemesis. We came down this a few years ago and she had exaggerated its height and difficulty till she was convinced it would be her downfall. Of course, she is so fit now that she sailed up it (like a barge, but still got to the top!).

Just in time for a hail storm to hit us. A rather slow change into wet weather gear under the shelter of Swine’s Back. Onwards, swaddled in waterproofs, in heavy rain. For 10 minutes. Then sunshine. A pattern which repeated itself for the next 4 hours. Finally, the rain lifted and we were able to dry out.

The walk along the escarpment to Kinder Downfall was easy going, but now with a string of other walkers off into the distance. Busy place. On to the cross-roads at Mill Hill then off North East towards Glede Hill and the A57 road. By now, we were getting used to the long stretches of slab pathway which had been laid to both prevent erosion of the Way and also make crossing the peaty moorland much easier. Some people complain that this isn’t aesthetically pleasing, but it makes a significant difference to average speeds and a major contribution to opening the Way to families.

As we crossed the A57,the path was fine for a short while, but rapidly deteriorated into follwiong a series of rocky brooks with short paved paths. Very difficult and unsafe, but also greatly reducing our speed. Our average became about 1 mile per hour. By the time we reached Bleaklow Head we were getting tired and initially missed the poor signposting towards Crowden. I took a bearing based on the map and we followed a rocky, shallow gully for a few miles. As some confirmation, some sensible soul had scratched PW into a rock at the start of this part of the Way…otherwise, no signs of any kind.

The gully was initially wide and easy walking. This soon changed into a narrow, rock strewn and dangerous – from an ankles perspective – channel. Speed again dropped as we carefully picked our way along, only improved in one or two places by short pathed stretches. This patter followed Wildboar Grain, clinging (most of the time – sometimes eroded away) to Clough Edge, with a steep drop of about 200’ for the careless. Not a walk for the faint hearted or height conscious! We emerged on the hillside overlooking Torside Reservoir – currently dried out - then descended and crossed into Crowden.
The YH is easy to find as long as you stick to the directions given on the signs…don’t take a shortcut as you are likely to end on the wrong side of the village. Crowden YHA is a relatively new, purpose-built Hostel. Again, really friendly and helpful staff who supplied a wholesome 3 course meal (bring your own wine!).

Weather forecast for tomorrow (Sunday) is pretty poor, so an early start is probably best based on how tiring we’ve found it on other walks to walk, navigate and climb safely in those conditions.

Day 1 – 25 May 2007, Getting to Edale








Well, here we are. 25 May dawned early (Margarette was snoring again). We got up about 7.00am and repacked my bags for the 5th or 6th time. This was really a displacement activity, as an excuse not to actually face up to the walk ahead! A full breakfast, relaxing in the sight of our builders starting to repair the roof then it was time for the last minute checks…freezer and fridge emptied, bins double bagged, water, gas and electricity switched off. Then we wanted a cup of tea. Start again…

09:40. Time to leave. Dennis, our neighbour, must have had a bet on that we would actually start, as he had offered to run us to the station for the Birmingham, Sheffield and Edale train shuttles. Many thanks, Dennis. By this time, of course, the main bags were too heavy…who ever heard of taking 36 litres of high-energy fluids to Derbyshire? Perhaps the planning gnomes had infiltrated too far. Brigantes, our main bag carrier, recommended a maximum weight per bag of 14 Kg. Maybe they won’t notice, especially if we drink as much as possible today, on the camel principle.

Train connections all worked fine and we arrived in Edale at 15:00. No taxis appear keen to come to Edale – especially later at night - but the school bus was due at 15:30 so no problem there…except that it left from the school, about 900 metres up the road. Liquids are heavy, aren’t they? Anyway, the school bus from Edale to our accommodation at Castleton was an education in itself. Bowers, the company, have the cheeriest and most helpful driver…great rapport with the kids who themselves were simply full of good-natured fun and very well behaved: a good recommendation for small country schools. The bus even stopped at one lad’s house so he could pop in and get his football boots before going with his friends to Hope village. The driver then pointed us in the right direction to the Youth Hostel in Castleton.

Fortunately, the effort in booking in early January paid off and we had a room and beds for the night. A walk around the village confirmed it as the home of Blue John stone jewellery and a series of caves including “The Devil’s Arse”. Castleton is really a beautiful village – but very boring and miserable as one local lady described it – in other words, almost Yorkshire in its outlook. Dinner in the Bull's Head was competent but possibly not the best the town had to offer…the bar staffs were cheery but fairly disorganised: that said, the food itself was really good. There are lots of bars and hotels in Castleton, so to single one out is perhaps unfair….must spend longer here next time. Lots of B&B accommodation, in contrast to Edale. With hindsight, perhaps we should have left the train at Hope and taken a one mile taxi ride to Castleton. Less stressful than trying to catch the bus!

The Youth Hostel is a pretty, old building on the market place. Staff here are cheery and appear very competent as well as being experienced walkers themselves. The YHA is busy with people of all ages, from late middle-aged (us!) to young families and the odd courting couple (I wonder what she thinks of this “weekend in a country house”?) Dinner, breakfast and packed lunch are all available. Accommodation is cheap, Spartan but clean…just what the YHA is well known for. Absolutely no complaints.

A local taxi company in Castleton will take us over the hill to Edale tomorrow (Saturday) at 08:30 for £8, so not too bad. Breakfast in the YHA starts at 07:30…a little later than we would have wished as it means we won’t be en route till about 09:00 and with 16 miles of (reportedly) hard moor land ahead, this is later than I would have liked to start.